\nLay out your kit and ensure you have all the parts, pieces and hardware required. Start by removing your old bumper and bumper braces.<\/p>\n
STEP 2:<\/strong> STEP 3:<\/strong> STEP 4:<\/strong> STEP 5:<\/strong> STEP 6:<\/strong> STEP 7:<\/strong> STEP 8:<\/strong> STEP 9:<\/strong> STEP 10:<\/strong>![\"KWdrawing\"](\"http:\/\/www.tenfourmagazine.com\/content\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/DecHowToStep1.jpg\")
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\nBolt the frame horn bracket on the front of the driver\u2019s and passenger\u2019s side frame horns.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nBolt the lift cylinder brackets to the frame as shown. Note: The jogged plate goes on the passenger\u2019s side (Step 5) and the flat plate that is notched with a large \u201cV\u201d mounts to the steering gearbox on the driver\u2019s side.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nBolt the swing plates onto the frame horn bracket as shown using top lock nuts. Apply a liberal amount of anti-seize or other heavy lubricant to the pivot bolts and insert them into the holes on the end of the frame bracket. Make sure to use washers between the bushings and do not over-tighten as this will result in drag when the bumper is flipping.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nAttach the cylinders to the frame mounted cylinder bracket and attach the clevis end of the cylinder to the back of the swing plate. Install driver\u2019s side cylinder with air fitting facing the inside of the truck frame for pitman arm clearance when turning.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nDecide on a location for the solenoid\/valve to be mounted. We prefer to mount it in the passenger side toolbox if possible. This keeps it out of the weather and more protected. Do not mount the solenoid valve under the hood. The hood cannot be opened with bumper lifted and vice versa.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nPlace a piece of tape on the air line coming from the base of each cylinder. This ensures one cylinder\u2019s air line isn\u2019t \u201cpushing\u201d while the other is \u201cpulling\u201d after you get the lines run.<\/p>\n
\nConnect air lines from the end of each cylinder to the supplied \u201cT\u201d fittings cross. Run two air lines from the middle of the \u201cT\u201d to where you\u2019re mounting the valve and regulator. Secure \u201cT\u201d and air lines to frame or other support. Note: \u201cA\u201d port is front and \u201cB\u201d (air line with tape) is rear, but do not hook these up yet.<\/p>\n
\nRun two air lines to the solenoid\/valve. You will need to tap into an unused port in your air tank or, if one is unavailable, \u201cT\u201d into an existing line. This line will need to run to the supply side of your solenoid\/valve.<\/p>\n
\nOne of the wires from your valve will be a ground and one will need to be wired to a spare on\/off switch in the dash. The two blue wires are not specific to power or ground, so either wire could be powered or grounded. Be sure to have a circuit protected by a circuit breaker or fuse (a 10- to 15-amp rating will suffice).
\nReinstall your bumper just as you would any UST\/boltless bumper. Manually lift the bumper to check clearance before putting power to the lift kit. After confirming clearance, connect the air lines at the valve, flip the switch and make sure all wiring, connections and plumbing are correct. Note: If using a 22\u201d bumper, you will need to use the 2\u201d wide spacer channel provided at the bottom of the bumper.<\/p>\n